Guidelines for the Clothing of Female Campfollowers of Colonel Gaffneyis Regiment James Kuehl October 1992

Contents Introduction and Bylaws Interpretive Clothing Scottish Culture History Music and Dance Military Life Language Bibliography, Sources and Library Materials

These guidelines are put forth to establish a common direction for members of the Camp to pursue.  In order to improve on their basic kit and give an historically based direction for items used by the membership, a time frame of 1620-30 is being established.  By establishing a limited time frame to base things on, we make it easier for members to assemble a truly period kit.  In order to achieve and maintain the appearance of a Scots mercenary regiment (and its campfollowing) of the 30 Years War, a systematic way of clothing our campfollowers must be made part of the muster process.  To that end, this set of guidelines is a framework for the clothing of all campfollowers of Col.  Gaffneyis Regiment.  Clothing the Campfollowers.  Campfollowers were chiefly wives, maids, whores, and merchant men and women of the lower classes and their clothing would reflect their station.  Contemporary quotes which are listed below make it clear that women's fashions in Scotland, "both in court and city, as well as in cloaks as naked heads and close sleeves on the arms and all other garments follow the fashion of the women of Germany.  " (See additional quotations below.  ) Therefore a number of illustrations of women's clothing are included here which come from the Dutch genre painters from the 17th century as possible models for female campfollower's attire.  Campfollowers need not be all Scottish women.  Many nationalities were prevalent in the 30 Years War.  Swedes, Irish, Germans, Dutch, English, Finns, etc.  Campfollowers would join, or leave the wagon trains at all times and the makeup of the camp would reflect this.  The Clothing Guidelines are divided into 3 categories, or levels: Level 1 - The Apprentice The apprentice would have her civilian clothing made up of the items listed in the General Regulations with in the first year of "enlistment" in order to pass muster.  (Gen.  Regs.  3-04.  ) Items required by the general regulations:   Chemise/blouse               Brooch/kilt pin                       Skirt        Arasaid                           Footwear                              Belt        Pocket(pouch)                knife/spoon                            mug/bowl      With these items, our apprentice would seem Scottish in appearance, but this might not necessarily be the case.  The Arasaid could have been a gift from her husband, or beau after he had been given his first regimental uniform.  Any cloth, or discarded clothing would have been put to use as a cloak, for warmth, or to keep off the rain.  Arasaids could be of any tartan, solid, or striped woolen fabric.  Level 2 - The "Veteran" The clothing of the veteran campfollower might be more European in style due to the exposure to other cultures involved in the 30 Years War.  In addition, to the clothing of the apprentice, a bodice, or jacket bodice, an apron, headwear, a stout knife, and a basket, or camp chest to carry the few personal items that she would have had time (and perhaps some money) to acquire.  This would be the time to decide upon a nationality so that one's clothing could reflect one's ethnic background.  Keep in mind the time frame of 1620-30.  Level 3 - The "Professional" Finally we have the career campfollower.  She has been following the regiment since she can recall.  She may hold employment as a laundress, or cook for officers, or she may make money in the less reputable ways like looting and selling booty, or the "oldest profession".  She has good warm clothing for the cold winters, tools for cooking, sewing, washing, or weaving, and possibly a musical instrument.  Since campfollowers were not paid by the regiment, there were no regimental guidelines concerning the dress of women.  There is no equivalent to the regimental uniform for women, no cockade, or any item to distinguish them as followers of a particular regiment.  They would know and recognize each other and the men and officers of the regiment.  When the regimental wagons were ready to roll, the campfollowers needed to be ready to move, or be left behind.  New campfollowers would find it difficult at first, but once they showed they could pull their own weight, they would be accepted by all.  There was no official structure among the camp followers, but a hierarchy existed based on experience, social standing, and an understood level of toughness.  There was no real equivalent to our Head Campfollower, Assistant Head Campfollower, or Goodwives, in the sense that these are elected and 20th century administrative positions.  It is important that we use history as our guide so that the integrity of the items we use and manufacture remains solid.  The campfollowers are free to pursue different ethnic styles and social levels (lower, to merchant class) because there were no official uniforms, or clothing ascribed by any army for their use.  Campfollowers should research the things they use carefully, while they are free to explore more areas of interest than are our soldiers, they portray a very small segment of the population as a whole, and very little has been recorded about them.