Let’s Talk Tartan
by James Kuehl
January 1990
Introduction and Bylaws
Interpretive
Clothing
Scottish Culture
History
Music and Dance
Military Life
Language
Bibliography, Sources
and Library Materials
There is not space here to enter the myriad complex questions regarding tartan cloth and its various setts. Suffice to say that the notion of a particular clan being distinguished by its own sett did not apply as late as the rebellions of the 17th an 18th centuries. Members of a clan recognized each other by the plant badge in their bonnets. Even in the 18th century, the only uniformity of setts was to be found in the government's Highland Regiments, and the clan tartans of today originate from no earlier than the 19th century.
The earliest surviving "tartan" is known as the Falkirk Tartan. It is believed to date from the 3rd century. It was found covering the mouth of a jar filled with coins dating from 83 BC to AD 230. [Since this article was written, tartan predating the Falkirk find by 1500 years or so was found during excavations of two cemeteries in western China. No, this is not a misprint.] What may be the earliest references to the royal use of tartan is contained in the accounts of the treasurer of King James III in 1471 where mention is made of tartan purchased for the king and queen. King James V wore tartan when hunting in the Highlands in 1538. In a crown charter of 1587, to Hector MacLean of Duart, the feu duty (a form of tax, or rent) was paid by 60 ells of cloth of white, black and green. These colors correspond to the tartan we now call "MacLean Hunting," but it is doubtful if their arrangement was the same as that in use now.
A tartan of a particular clan is not an early Highland notion. Tartans would reflect the available supply of plants to make dyes. In regions where plants for making red dye were scarce, red tartans would be almost non-existent, and only a chief, or laird would be able to afford a red tartan. Highlanders were partial to blue and brown. Black is also common. These colors were simple to produce from local plants in most regions of Scotland.
When choosing a tartan, all of these elements should be taken into account. It is less important to choose the tartan of a particular clan than it is to find a tartan that is within the context of your character [Editor's Note: the assignation of tartans to particular Scottish clans is a Victorian invention. There was no such thing as a clan tartan in our period.]. If you are not portraying a veteran soldier, use these rules to help select a period looking tartan: 1) Choose a symmetrical sett. 2) Choose a simple sett. 3) Choose a simple color scheme.
If you keep these rules in mind you should be able to select a period-looking tartan. If you feel you must have a "real" tartan, I recommend Black Watch and Rob Roy. A simple check like Rob Roy is the most basic design of tartan. This design has been used since pre-Roman times.
Sources:
Bain, Robert. Clans and Tartans of Scotland.
Barthorp, M. The Jacobite Rebellions 1689-1745.
Batteryby, M. Fashion: The Mirror of History.
Dunbar, J. T. The History of Highland Dress.